Updated on 9 November 2026. Recommended products are available at the time of this update.
Choose inner tubes if you want a system that is simple to fit and maintain; consider tubeless if you want to seal many small punctures as you ride and reduce the risk of pinch flats, especially off-road. A tubeless ready tyre is designed to work without an inner tube, but requires compatible rims, sealant and correct fitting.
Inner tubes, tubeless and tubeless ready: the differences
The main difference is where the air is held. The word “folding”, on the other hand, describes the tyre bead and does not indicate tubeless compatibility.
- With an inner tube, or tube type: the air is held in the inner tube, inside the tyre. You need a tyre and rim compatible with this setup.
- Tubeless: the air stays in the space between the tyre and rim, without an inner tube. In traditional tubeless systems, the tyre may have an airtight inner layer; whether sealant is used depends on the model's instructions.
- Tubeless ready, often marked TLR or TR: the tyre is designed to be fitted without an inner tube on a compatible wheel. Sealant is needed to make the setup airtight and seal small holes.
A tubeless ready tyre can often also be used with an inner tube, if the manufacturers allow it. A tyre specified as tube type only does not become tubeless by adding sealant.
What changes for road, gravel and MTB riding
Tubeless eliminates pinch flats caused by the inner tube being trapped between an obstacle and the rim. Tyre cuts, rim damage and air leaks are still possible: the system is not immune to punctures.
- Road: sealant can close small holes in the tread. At road tyre pressures, some holes are harder to seal and may need a repair.
- Gravel: on unpaved surfaces, tubeless lets you seek a good balance between grip, comfort and protection from inner tube pinch flats.
- MTB: having no inner tube is useful over roots and rocks. Pressures that are too low can still cause rim strikes, cuts or air leaks at the bead.
Rolling resistance and weight depend on the whole setup: tyre, casing, inner tube or quantity of sealant. Tubeless is not automatically lighter or faster.
How to choose
- Check your wheels first: if the rim is not approved for tubeless use, stick with an inner tube or consider a compatible wheel. Tape alone does not make every rim suitable for conversion.
- Consider how often you ride: for occasional use, an inner tube avoids the need for regular sealant checks. Even so, always check the pressure before riding.
- Consider the terrain and your usual punctures: small thorn holes and pinch flats make tubeless worth considering. Large cuts and damaged sidewalls can stop either system.
- Think about the maintenance you are willing to do: changing an inner tube is generally straightforward. Tubeless requires checks for airtightness, sealant and valves, as well as an initial fitting process that can sometimes be more demanding.
- Consider the total cost: a conversion may require tyres, tape, valves, sealant and inflation equipment, as well as labour.
- Choose a suitable width and casing: a tyre that is too fragile for the route remains vulnerable to damage even without an inner tube.
For road riding, you can read more about how to choose between 25, 28, 30 or 32 mm tyres. To adjust your chosen setup, also read what pressure to inflate your bike tyres to.
Compatible components: what to check before converting
Compatibility concerns the whole system. The same nominal size alone does not guarantee that a rim and tyre can work together.
- Rim: the manufacturer must specify it as tubeless or tubeless ready, with a rim bed and profile suitable for the tyre.
- Tyre: it must be approved for tubeless fitting. Check the ETRTO diameter, the permitted tyre width for the rim and the clearance in the frame and fork.
- Tubeless tape: it must have the width and application specified for the rim. Some rims already have an airtight rim bed and do not require it.
- Tubeless valve: the base must suit the rim bed and the length must suit the rim profile.
- Sealant: choose a product compatible with the tyre and wheel, following the specified quantities and intervals.
- Inflation: a pump may be enough; some combinations require an inflation tank or a compressor used according to the instructions.
Take care with hookless rims: their sidewalls have no hooks and they require expressly approved tyres and widths. Follow the more restrictive limit of the tyre and rim combination and never exceed the limits, even during fitting; inserting an inner tube does not make an unapproved tyre compatible.
A setup with an inner tube instead requires a correctly sized inner tube, a suitable valve and the rim bed protection specified by the manufacturer. Not all inner tubes have the same requirements: also check the instructions for your chosen material.
How to switch to tubeless
Before starting, check that the rim and tyre are undamaged and compatible. If there is no clear statement of compatibility, have the wheel checked at a workshop.
- Clean and dry the rim bed, then apply tape where required, following the wheel instructions.
- Install the valve and fit the tyre, observing the direction of rotation.
- Add the sealant using the specified method and quantity, then inflate without exceeding the system limits.
- Check that the bead is evenly seated on both sides and distribute the sealant by rotating the wheel.
- Check for leaks and recheck the pressure before your first ride.
If the tyre does not seat, do not keep increasing the pressure. Identify the cause of the problem.
Maintenance: what changes over time
With both systems, check the pressure, tread, sidewalls and valve condition. Frequent pressure loss warrants a check, even if reinflating is enough to get going again.
- Inner tube: a conventional setup does not require sealant top-ups. If there is a leak, check the inner tube, tyre and rim tape.
- Tubeless: sealant gets used up and can dry out. Check it according to the product instructions, and more often in hot weather or with intensive use.
- Valves and tape: check that the valve is not blocked and the tape is not damaged. A leak may be caused by these components rather than a puncture.
- Internal cleaning: remove sealant build-up when necessary, using methods compatible with the tyre. Do not mix different liquids without checking their compatibility.
How to deal with a puncture during a ride
With an inner tube, find and remove the cause of the puncture before fitting the replacement. Also check the rim tape, and repair the inner tube only with a kit suitable for its material.
With tubeless, a small hole may seal thanks to the sealant. Position the hole at the bottom to help the liquid reach it, then check that it holds air and check the pressure before setting off again.
- If the hole does not seal: a tubeless repair plug, often called a worm, can help with repairable damage to the tread. Use a kit suitable for the tyre and follow its instructions.
- If an emergency inner tube is needed: deflate the tyre, remove the tubeless valve and carefully check inside, where hidden thorns may remain. Fit the inner tube only if the tyre, rim and their combination allow it.
- If there are major cuts or bead damage: stop. An inner tube cannot resolve structural damage that prevents the tyre from staying seated.
Carry a pump, compatible tyre levers, a suitable inner tube if one can be used, and the repair kit for your system. After an emergency repair, have the tyre checked before returning to normal use.
Our recommendations, available now
These models from the Tyres collection cover different needs, from road riding with inner tubes to tubeless ready off-road riding.
Continental Grand Prix 5000 Folding Tyre 28-622 700x28 Black
It suits riders who ride on tarmac and want to keep using an inner tube: this version is a clincher and is not tubeless. In size 28-622, it combines BlackChili compound, Vectran protection and a three-layer casing rated at 330 TPI.
Continental Grand Prix 5000 S TR 28-622 (700x28c) Tyre Black Tubeless Ready
It is an option for those looking for a 700x28 road tyre to use tubeless or with an inner tube. It offers Vectran Breaker protection, a Lazer Grip microprofile on the shoulders and Active Comfort Technology in the casing to absorb vibrations.
Pirelli P Zero Race Tubeless Ready Speedcore Tyre
It is designed for racing and fast road rides, with a SpeedCore casing and SmartEVO compound. It is available in 700x26c, 28c and 30c; for hookless rims, the data indicates compatibility only in sizes 28c and 30c, with a limit of 5 bar.
Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M Tubeless Ready Tyre
It suits riders who alternate between tarmac and unpaved surfaces on mixed terrain, with SpeedGRIP compound and a TechWALL casing rated at 120 TPI. It is tubeless ready, can be used with or without an inner tube, and is available in 650Bx45 and sizes 700x35, 700x40, 700x45 and 700x50.
Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H Tyre
It is suitable for riders on compact, hard and fast-rolling surfaces, particularly on easy, predominantly flat gravel routes. It is tubeless ready and features low, closely spaced knobs with SpeedGrip compound.
Vittoria E-Martello Graphene 2.0 4C Enduro Tubeless Ready Tyre Black
It is designed for enduro on MTB, with 2-Ply dual-layer construction and 4C G2.0 compound with graphene. It is tubeless ready and available in 27.5 and 29 inch diameters, with widths of 2.35, 2.4 and 2.6.
For shipping information, see the shipping policy.
We help you choose in Casapulla
Evolution Bikes has been a family shop in Casapulla, in the province of Caserta, since 1974. Now in its third generation, it offers a workshop, bike fitting and e-bike servicing. Bring your bike in to check compatibility and have the pressure adjusted for your chosen system, or ask us for advice before buying or converting your wheels.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between tubeless and tubeless ready?
Both can work without an inner tube. Tubeless ready requires sealant to create an airtight seal; traditional tubeless systems may have an airtight inner layer, but you must follow the instructions for the model.
Can I convert any wheel to tubeless?
No: the rim and tyre must be approved for tubeless use and for use together. Adding tape and sealant to an unapproved rim is not enough.
Can I fit an inner tube in a tubeless ready tyre?
Often yes, if the tyre and rim manufacturers allow it. On hookless rims, fitting an inner tube does not allow you to use tyres that are not approved for that rim.
How often should tubeless sealant be replaced?
There is no single interval that applies to everyone: it depends on the sealant, climate and use. Check and top up according to the product instructions, checking more often in hot weather.
